Nautical Warfare

How tales of the seven seas flooded fashion.

A centuries-old battle between good and evil, first portrayed in legends and much later in Hollywood blockbusters. The feud between sailors and pirates, the noblemen who aim to bring order to the seas and the forces who seek to pillage and conquer at any cost. These opposed positions have been fighting since humans began exploring the ocean, but now they have found a new battlefield: the runway.

Sailor style has been co-opted by fashionable women everywhere, regardless of proximity to water, as the iconic hats, collars, and stripes of modern sailors have been reimagined into feminine attire. Walking down any street in New York City feels as if a fashionable Fleet Week is constantly occurring.

Elements of the sailor’s uniform have made their way into fashion for decades. Designer Jean Paul Gaultier utilized the sailor’s Brenton stripes in the 1984 “Boy Toy” collection, opening the door for Gaultier to experiment with every element of the uniform. After constant use of nautical aesthetics in countless collections, the sailor became an integral part of the brand and one of the catalysts of the trend trickling down.

Popping up in Spring/Summer 2023 but spreading like wildfire during Spring/Summer 2025 and 2026, designers couldn’t resist drawing inspiration from the protectors of the seas for their cutting-edge looks. Ralph Lauren, Simone Rocha, Thom Browne, Max Mara, and Miu Miu were some of the top brands that released looks with the distinct aesthetic, and fashion lovers quickly took notice.

Dubbed “sailor core” by social media, the trend seems to be reaching the peak stage of the fashion trend cycle. The once niche, whimsical look moved beyond high fashion and indie designs, quickly becoming oversaturated with offerings from major retailers. Once sailor hats move off the runway and into Anthropologie and H&M, there is only so much further the trend can go. With sailor aesthetics becoming so apparent, it leaves room for a new challenger to take the wheel.

Pirates have risen and begun infiltrating fashion as the fashion industry can’t quit its affair with nautical aesthetics. After being so good for so long, it feels freeing to embrace the wild style of these chaotic forces. If the sailor fashion is prim and proper, with tidy hair, crisp white linens, and an innocent attitude, the pirate’s aesthetic undoes everything. The staples are undone hair, flowy blouses, ostentatious hats, and eclectic accessories. The goal is to appear as if your look has been scavenged and sourced from the far, fabulous corners of the world instead of simply handed to you.

If the sailors had Jean Paul Gaultier to lead them into high fashion, the legendary punk designer Vivienne Westwood represented the pirates. Her 1981 collection, “Pirate,” brought a very literal take on the swashbuckler’s uniform to the runway with large hats and flowy garments that appeared almost authentic, crafted with bold colors and patterns. Westwood recognized that the punk movement, the subculture to which she belonged and designed for, could resonate with the pirate as their unapologetic and flamboyant nature is exactly what punk embodied.

John Galliano has also been a big factor in solidifying the pirates' influence on high fashion as the designer routinely incorporated the look into his lavish designs during his tenure at Christian Dior. Now Dior has a new designer steering the ship, Jonathan Anderson, who shares the same affection for the rebellious spirits of the seas. His debut womenswear collection during Spring/Summer 2026 showcased a new take on the pirate hat, accompanying looks suited for brunch, the office, or a gala. No matter the occasion, Anderson feels that a sense of

Smaller designers aren’t just taking elements of the pirate or sailor but illustrating a full nautical fantasy on the runway. Dilara Findikoglu took on the pirate’s long coat with a garment that appears as if it had been stolen of the backs of the naval military and heavily embellised to suit the adventure’s style. Findikoglu also sent multiple gowns down the runway that appeared as if they had been pieced together from a wreckage, resulting in a beautiful new creation.

Elena Velez took the shipwreck literally for her Fall/Winter 2025 show “LEECH” as she transformed her venue, having models strut past the debris of a ship gone astray. The show resembled the aftermath of a naval battle as models sported cutting-edge looks that were pieced together and tattered. Showing that after the fighting between fashion’s sailors and pirates, something beautiful can emerge.

With both styles simultaneously trending, fashion lovers can choose which side of the battle they want to be on. Does the idealistic worldview of the sailor speak to the wearer with crisp clothes and innocent accessories or does the wild, untamed nature of the pirate lure them in to indulge in fashion’s excess. No matter which side prevails, fashion won’t cease it’s love of all things nautical.